Daniel Lee's Burberry is engaged in a project of profound and patient reinvention. The Spring 2025 collection, shown at a London institution, was the clearest articulation yet of what the creative director wants the house to mean: something rooted in English eccentricity, in the landscape and weather of a very particular place, but entirely contemporary in its execution.
The outerwear — which must be the house's primary concern — was magnificent. Trenches were reworked with a sculptural quality that made them feel both inevitable and entirely new. The signature check appeared transformed: woven into textures rather than printed onto surfaces, structural rather than merely decorative.
Lee's colour sense was impeccable throughout — the ochres and forest greens and unexpected flashes of electric blue felt simultaneously English and globally sophisticated. These are clothes for people who know exactly who they are, and need their wardrobe to confirm it.
